If you must choose a wall that receives direct light, consider an ambient light rejecting projector screen or, if you’re painting your screen on the wall, you can use ambient light rejecting paint (available at hardware stores). [2] X Research source You might also consider buying blackout curtains for your windows.

If you have multiple rows in your home theatre, you’ll want to have the screen a bit higher so that people who aren’t in the front row can still properly see whatever images or films you are projecting on to the screen. [4] X Research source When deciding on how far above the floor to place the screen, always keep the screen size in mind, as starting it too high off the ground might not leave enough room for the entire screen.

Most projectors can create a high-quality 100-in. (254-cm, or 8. 33-foot) image, so if you’re unsure of what size of screen to get — and your room can accommodate it — you should be safe with something close to 100 in. [5] X Research source

If you have a 100-inch screen and a throw ratio range of 1. 4:1 to 2. 8:1, you can position your projector anywhere between 140 and 280 in. (355. 6 and 711. 2 cm, or 11. 67 and 23. 33 ft. ) from the screen. [6] X Research source The calculation looks like this (using the 1. 4:1 ratio as an example): 1. 4 x 100 in. = 140 in. You can also switch the formula around. If you would prefer to choose a screen size that suits where you want to mount your projector, follow this formula: throw distance divided by throw ratio = screen width. Say you want to place your projector 16 feet away from your screen, and your projector has a throw ratio of 1. 4:1 to 2. 8:1. Using the lower end of the ratio (1. 4:1) as an example, you would divide 16 ft. (192 in. ) by 1. 4, which equals a screen size of 11. 43 ft. (137. 16 in. ). Given that the throw ratio ranges up to 2. 8:1, you can actually choose a screen size between 5. 71 (68. 52 in. ) and 11. 43 ft.

Seating/viewing position — if your projector is loud or quite heavy, you might not want it hanging right above your head. Power outlets/cabling — your projector likely has two cables: HDMI and power. You’ll want to make sure that you’re either close enough to your receiver to plug in your projector, or that you have the appropriate-length cables/extensions. Image preference — even within the throw distance range, there will be variations in the image quality, so you’ll want to test out which distance you prefer before finalizing where to mount the projector. Shorter distances (i. e. projector closer to the screen) will be brighter, and longer distances (i. e. projector farther from the screen) will give more contrast and a sharper image. [7] X Research source [8] X Research source

Many projectors are equipped with a vertical lens shift, which allows you to adjust the image height without having to move the projector. If yours has this, try holding your projector at different heights while adjusting the lens shift to see where it works best before mounting it. [11] X Research source If your projector doesn’t have a vertical lens shift (i. e. it has a fixed vertical offset), you’ll need to place it at exactly the recommended height.

The following example is for a projector with a -96. 3% to +96. 3% offset: A standard high-definition projection screen will have a 1. 78:1 (16:9) aspect ratio, meaning that the screen will be 1. 78 times as wide as it is high. If your screen is 100 in. (8. 33 ft. ) wide, it will likely be 56. 18 in. (4. 68 ft. ) high. To calculate a vertical offset for a 56. 18-in. screen: 56. 18 in. (height) x 96. 3% (offset — if your calculate doesn’t have a % symbol, use 0. 963) = 54. 10 in. This means that the projector can be positioned anywhere from 54. 10 in. below the center of your screen to 54. 10 in. above the center of your screen.

It’s best to avoid using horizontal lens shift whenever possible, as this can distort your image and cause issues with your vertical lens shift. [14] X Research source

Buy something sturdy and high quality; poor quality projectors are more likely to drift over time, causing your projector (and the image) to move out of alignment with the screen. [16] X Research source You may need to buy adapters for your mount depending upon your ceiling type. For a suspended ceiling (one that is dropped down from the structural ceiling, and thus will be unable to support heavy loads), buy a suspended ceiling kit. For a cathedral ceiling (high and arched), purchase a cathedral ceiling adapter.

If the mount-to-lens distance is 6 in. , the new total for an original throw distance of 16 ft. is 16. 5 ft.

Lag bolts (aka lag screws) are fasteners with flat, hexagonal heads and threaded, cylindrical shafts. They can be screwed directly into wood. They can also be screwed into concrete when used with an insert called a lag. The lag bolts for your projector installation should be 3 in. (7. 6 cm) long and 0. 3125 in. (7. 9 mm) wide (unless otherwise stated by your mount manual). To use a stud finder you simply run it along the wall until its indicator tells you that it’s hit a stud. More detailed instructions will be in your stud finder’s manual. If there are no joists available in the location where you want to mount your projector, you’ll either need to reconsider that spot, or first install a piece of wood that spans the space between the two joists. If possible (i. e. if there’s an attic above you), hide the wood inside the ceiling. [19] X Research source You can also drill through the ceiling, put in anchors, then screw the projector into that. [20] X Expert Source Jason PhillipHandyman Expert Interview. 2 July 2020.

You might consider using wire molds (aka cord covers) to help your cables blend in with the wall as they run down to your receiver and power outlet. These should be available at your local hardware store. If you don’t mind the look of the cables but would like to at least keep them neat and tidy, you can also just fasten them at certain points on your wall using cable supports and fasteners (also available at your local hardware store).

Before going into fine tuning, adjust the image so that it is as close to accurate as possible. This will ideally save you some time and frustration while fine tuning. [21] X Research source