Anything you cannot remove you should cover in painter’s tape to keep clean and protected.
Generally, running your finger along the surface, top or bottom, will tell you if there is still a coating– it feels like a candle or a freshly waxed car. If you are in any doubt about the coating, go over the boat again – paint will not stick to this waxy surface, so it all needs to go. [3] X Research source
Make sure you fill in any holes with marine-grade epoxy, found near the marine paint in hardware and boat stores.
If the old coat of paint is flaky or damaged you will need to strip it and sand it away entirely. If the old paint is a different type than the one you plan to apply (non-vinyl vs vinyl paint), then remove it entirely. Never use a belt sander on your boat Warning: wear a respirator and eye protection when sanding, as paint chips are toxic. [6] X Research source
When available, paint your boat in a covered area.
Two step polyurethane paint, while longer lasting, takes precise mixing and application techniques to use. Most gel coats, excepting expensive, high-end options, will fade in 1-2 years.
Two step polyurethane paint, while longer lasting, takes precise mixing and application techniques to use. Most gel coats, excepting expensive, high-end options, will fade in 1-2 years.
After the first coat has dried, lightly sand the boat (300-grit sandpaper) and apply another coat. [9] X Research source
