Make sure to rotate the light around a bit, so that you can see the wall from different angles. This will reveal even more damaged spots, if there are any.
It’s not enough to just sand directly over the seam. To keep it from cracking, try to sand down about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) on both sides.
Use a sanding pole with paper attached at the end to reach to the tops of walls. Sand gently when using a pole or it can move around and gouge the wall.
If you want an extra layer of protection, you can also go over the wall with a feather duster. Let the wall dry for at least 24-48 hours after applying compound, sanding, and wiping down before priming or painting.
You really don’t need to set drop cloths across the entire floor of a room unless you plan to paint the drywall ceiling as well.
The majority of primers come in light or white colors, but a paint professional can mix together an altered color for you upon request. For example, many people prefer to use a moisture-barrier primer in basement spaces or to add an extra layer of protection for exterior walls. Pro Tip: According to Sam Adams, full service contractor, PVA primer works great on fresh drywall. He says, “PVA is specifically made for new drywall, and it’s way cheaper than a regular primer. If you use something else, you’ll be spending twice as much for a primer you don’t need. ”
You’ll notice that the primer will go on a bit thicker than traditional paint. This is because of the adhesive PVA, which helps the primer to bind with the drywall.
To keep the paint from dripping off your brush, lightly bump the sides of the brush against the sides of the roll pan after loading it up with paint. It’s best to use a tapered, synthetic-bristle brush when painting the edges of a drywall space.
Try not to overload or saturate the roller with paint. If you do, you’ll end up with more splatters. You can also attach a plastic shield to the handle of the roller if you are worried about splatter.
