Sanding is important. It gives smooth surfaces some tooth, allowing the paint to stick on better
Let the primer dry completely before proceeding. If you are using a spray-able primer, be sure to cover your work surface and work in a well-ventilated area.
If there are any places on your plastic you do not wish to paint, cover them in painter’s tape.
Shake spray paint cans for a few minutes. This will ready the paint to spray, mixing it and giving you a smoother application. Thin acrylic paint with enough water to give it the consistency of creamer. This will give you a smoother application and help reduce brushstrokes. Some model/enamel paints need to be thinned as well. In most cases, you will need to use a paint thinner formulated for enamel paints; it’s typically sold alongside the other enamel paints.
Hold spray cans 12 to 18 inches (30 to 46 centimeters) away from the surface. Apply the paint in a sweeping motion. Apply acrylic paints using a taklon, kanekalon, or sable brush. Apply enamel/model paints using a stiff-bristle brush. They are typically sold alongside the other model paints.
If you applied masking tape earlier, you should remove it now. Peel it away carefully so that you don’t accidentally chip the paint.
Apply stencils to the piece, then paint over them with spray paint or acrylic paint and a foam brush. Use a thin, pointed brush to paint on delicate scrollwork or designs. Add highlights with lighter shades of your paint color, and shadows with darker shades.
Choose a sealer in a finish that appeals to you: matte, satin, or glossy. Several light coats of sealer are better than one thick coat. If you apply the sealer too thickly, it may turn out tacky.
Many enamel-based paints require several days to cure. During this time, they may be sticky and prone to peeling or chipping.
