Auto focus: Set this to continuous (C or AF-C on Nikon cameras, SERVO on Canon cameras). Frame rate: Faster is not always better! Remember, with your SLR, the faster your frame rate, the greater time is spent with your SLR’s mirror in the up position, and consequently, you might have problems tracking the action with your viewfinder blacked out for so much of the time. On the other hand, faster frame rates give you an opportunity to catch the action at exactly the right moment, which is why professional sports photographers love them. Image stabilization: Nikon calls this VR (vibration reduction). You probably want this on, even for panning shots (which this article will cover later). Exposure mode: Start out with shutter-priority mode (S on Nikon cameras, Tv on Canon cameras); this mode lets you pick a shutter speed and the camera will pick an aperture to match. It’s more likely that you’ll need to control your shutter speed than control your depth of field while photographing drifting. Of course, you can just use Program and shift the program to your desired combination of shutter speed and aperture. Don’t use the “Sports” mode on your camera if you have one; this locks out several of your controls and forces fast shutter speeds that result in boring photographs (which will be covered later). Image quality: Most motor racing photographers shoot raw. Some people prefer shooting JPEGs. This is a religious subject which won’t be touched on here; use whatever works for you.
